How to... PATTERNS

This page will house the patterns I use for my creations. It will be an eclectic mix- knitting, crochet,sewing... anything needing a template.
Listed newest at the top;

Hooty the owl crochet pattern for chunky/mixed
Fingerless gloves/mitts knitting in DK
Simple crochet flowers
Simple crochet heart
Ball Pincushion sewing fabrics
Easy Crochet Roses
Crochet Lily 
Crochet Butterfly (variation of lily)


Hooty The Owl; Crochet pattern

This is a quick and simple pattern, it will only take a couple of hours to make, perfect for  a quick birthday pressy, or baby shower gift...
I have used a mix of wools, two DK’s used together and an aran with a 6mm hook. Using thinner wool and smaller hook will make a smaller owl, but the proportions should stay the same.
You will need;
100g chunky or equivalent (2 x DK) multi coloured, 50g plain chunky or equivalent (2 x DK). I used a very thick aran as the plain so the difference was barely noticeable. 6mm hook, felt, buttons, silks, stuffing or whatever you choose to embellish.

Using the multi-colour wool make 6 chains, slip stitch to create  a circle. Work Double Chain (DC) 10 times into the centre, when the last chain meets the first chain make a slip stitch to join. Begin to DC in each chain making 2 x DC in every 3rd chain.


Continue like this until work measures about 3” across, approximately 3-4 rows. Continue to work the round in DC making 2x DC in every 6 chains. This will give a smooth bowing of the sides. Continue working this pattern until work measures approx 4” across, another 2-3 rows.

Work straight DC in each chain until the tube part measures 2 ½”, approx 8-9 rows. 

Change to the plain wool and continue 2 rows straight. 
 Begin to decrease by working 2 chains together (it will look like a HTR, work it as HTR) every 6 chains. This will make the curve inwards. 


 After 3 rows or when the hole is 1”, fill the body with stuffing evenly, then begin to decrease every 3 chains, until there are 7-8 chains left, cut the wool, tie off, and weave through the chains, draw together and tie off.

Wings; Cast on 7 chain. DC into 2nd chain from the hook. DC into the next 4 chains.  HTR x6 into the last chain. 
Turning the work and keeping the same side facing, work DC into the back of the original chains. Slip stitch into the top chain. 
DC x2 into the next chain, DC into the next 5 chains, HTR x2 into next chain, DC into next chain. DC x2 into next chain then DC into next 5, DC x2 into next chain. 
Slip stitch into last chain and finish off. 
Repeat for second wing. Sew into place just below the colour change with the longer edge facing front.


Ears; Make 2. Make 6 chains. DC into 2nd chain from hook, DC into nect 3 chains. HTR x2 into last chain, DC x2 into same chain, HTR x2 into same chain. 
DC into next 3 chains. Slip stitch into next chain, make 1 chain, cut and finish off. 

Sew ends back into ear to hide them. Sew with the longer edge to the facing front. 

Eyes; Cut shapes in several shades of felt and layer with buttons. Embroider if required and place on the colour change line.

Take a triangle of felt a suitable size, and sew the top in place. Work down one edge, stuff, then finish the last edge. You could also add feet if you wish, or perhaps a strap?

So here he is... I'm just about to do a girly version.... should be finished tomorrow morning...


Fingerless Glove/Mitts


A mix of remnant DK wool up to 70g. These take surprisingly little wool, especially if you are using up odd ends. The perfect item to reduce your stash of oddments!
3.25 and 4mm needles, darning needle, (2 stitch markers and 2 buttons for flaps if required)

I have worked these in 2 sizes, the smaller size is great for kids/small female hands, the larger size is perfect for average male hands. Both are quite stretchy so will fit a wide range. I have largish hands for a girl, the small gloves fit snug, the large pair gives a little wiggle room, so either pair work depending on how tight you like your gloves.
Both gloves are made exactly the same in pattern, but not in wool colours- I vary the stripes and fingers to use up my wool better. The pattern is written for one colour, add variations as and where you like, just make a note as you work for symmetry on your second glove. Check the lengths as you go and reduce or add rows as needed to make the correct length.

K- knit;  P-purl;  St-stitch;  Stst- Stocking stitch;  RSF- right side facing;  K2tog- Knit 2 together;  SSK- slip st knitways;

With 3.25 needles cast on 36:40 stitches.
Work K1,P1 rib for 6cm ( or length you like), ending with a purl row.
Change to 4mm needles, K2tog at both ends, and K2tog twice more equally spaced
between all the stitches. (32:36)               Purl one row
Main body-
K15:17, M1,K2,M1,k15:17       (34:38)           Purl 3 rows
K15:17, M1,K4,M1,k15:17       (36:40)          Purl 3 rows
K15:17, M1,K6,M1,k15:17       (38:42)           Purl 3 rows
K15:17, M1,K8,M1,k15:17       (40:44)           Purl 3 rows
K15:17, M1,K10,M1,k15:17     (42:46)           Purl 1 row
K27:29, turn, cast on 1:2 st, P13:14. Turn, cast on 1:2 st, K14:16.
Work 1” (approx 5:7 rows) ending with purl. Cast off loosely and sew down the thumb.
With the RSF rejoin wool and pick up 2 st across the base of the thumb, K to end. Purl one row.
Knit next row marking stitches 2 and 20:21 on the right glove, or 23 and 41:42 on the left.
Continue in Stocking stitch until work is level with the base of the fingers (approx 8:10 rows)
1st Finger-
K22:24, turn, cast on 1:2 st, P13:14. Turn, cast on 1:2 st, K14:16
Work 1” st-st (approx 5:7 rows) ending with purl. Cast off loosely and sew down the thumb.
2nd Finger-
With the RSF rejoin wool and pick up 4 st across the base of the 1st finger,K4:5, turn. Cast on 1:2 st, P13:14, turn. Cast on 1:2 st, K14:16.
Work 1” st-st (approx 5:7 rows) ending with purl. Cast off loosely and sew down the finger.
3rd Finger-
With the RSF rejoin wool and pick up 4 st across the base of the 2nd finger,K4:5, turn. Cast on 1:2 st, P13:14, turn. Cast on 1:2 st, K14:16.
Work 1” st-st (approx 5:7 rows) ending with purl. Cast off loosely and sew down the finger.
4th Finger-
With the RSF rejoin wool and pick up 4 st across the base of the 3rd finger,K3:4, turn. Cast on 1:2 st, P10:12, turn. Cast on 2 st, K12:14.
Work 1” st-st (approx 5:7 rows) ending with purl. Cast off loosely and sew down the finger ans side of the glove.
With 3.25 needles cast on 19:20 sts working K1,P1 rib for 4 rows. Set aside.
With glove fingers pointing upwards pick up and knit 19:20 sts between markers. Purl 1 row.
Knit next row, then knit across the ribbed 19:20 sts on the 3.25 needle. (38:40) Continue in st-st until work measures 5.5:6cm (1” from the tip of longest finger), ending with a purl row.
K1, ssk, K14, K3tog, ssk, K14, K2tog, K1 (33:35)           Purl 1 row.
K1, (ssk, K12, K2tog) twice, K1 (29:31)                            Purl 1 row.
K1, (ssk, K10, K2tog) twice, K1 (25:27)                            Purl 1 row.
K1, (K3tog, K6,K3tog) twice,K1 (17:19)                            Purl 1 row.
Cast off, sew along top and down sideseam.

Add buttons to the wristband and a loop on each flap.

J Crochet k l flowers m
This is a simple guide to creating quick and easy flowers. It works equally well in wool or cotton thread, although you will need the appropriate sized hook. Here are a few examples..

Any flower, whatever size, can be created simply by using a different stitch in each round. The petals can be made larger or smaller by missing 1 or more chains, the only thing to remember is if you will be missing 2 chains or more you need to make sure that you begin with a multiple number of stitches in your first round. Eg. miss 1, create even number; miss 2 create multiples of 3; miss 3 create multiples of 4, etc. So 5 petals with 2 chain gaps will need 15 stitches (5 x [2+1] )
1- To begin, make 5 chains using your chosen fibre. For these flowers I’ll be using cotton thread and a 2mm hook.
2- Slip stitch through the first chain created to make a circle. ( Put hook through chain, put thread around needle and draw back through both stitches on the hook)
3- For the simplest flowers (1) make 2 chain, then DC 10 or 12 times into the circle. (DC: double chain- thread round hook, push through circle, draw back through all 3 stitches)
4- Slip stitch into the top chain of the first 2 created at the beginning of the round.
5- Make 4 or 5 chains, depending on how deep you want your petals, then slip stitch into the next chain along the round. Create another 4 or 5 chains and slip stitch into the 3rd chain along (ie. Miss 1 chain) Work round until you have all your petals, finally slip stitching into the gap created by the first slip stitch.
6- You can at this point work further rounds to create a lacy flower (2), or work DC into the petals to fill them out more. Work the number of stitches that you used for the petal, eg, 4 chains- work 4 DC; 5 chains- work 5 DC etc. Slip stitch each time into the small gap made by the slip stitch from previous round.

Variation 1;
1- Make 5 chains and join as before. For a deeper centre work 3 chain, then make desired numbers of TC to create a circle with a correct number of chains. (TC: Treble chain- Wrap thread around hook twice, push hook through circle, wrap thread round and draw back through first 2 stitches only. Wrap thread around hook again and draw back through next 2 stitches, then repeat once more, finishing with 1 stitch on the hook.
2- You can then work the 4 or 5 chain petal base as before...
3- You can either work a further round in DC, as for the previous flower, or you could make a shaped petal by  mixing stitches; DC, 2x TC, DC; or perhaps DC 3x TC, DC; 2x DC, TC, 2x DC, etc. Work one petal, see how it looks and adjust your stitches to your taste. You can always unpick a few stitches and rework- on something this small it won’t be too much of a pain!!
Variation 2:
1- Make 5 chains and join with slip stitch. 
2- Work *2 chains, 1 DC, 1 TC, 1DC, 2 chains*, slip stitch into the circle. Work this set until the circle is full and you have as many petals as you’d like. It helps to shuffle the centre stitches around at intervals to allow room for more and create an even middle. 
3- You could also work 3 DC; 5 DC; 5 TC; 2 chain, 3 TC, 2 chain or any other combination to give you whatever shape petal you want.

Once you have done a few and got used to the rhythm and feel of it, you will soon be happy to mix up stitches and create a whole range of funky little flowers.


Simple Crochet Heart

Any wool and a corresponding size hook, eg. Double knitting and a 4mm hook, giving a 2 ½” tall heart. Thicker wool and bigger hook will give a much larger heart.

1- Make 6 chains then slip stitch into last chain to create a circle.

2- Chain 3, DC 2 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, DC 1 and SC 1 into next chain, make 2 chain, DC 1 into next chain, make 2 chain, SC 1 and DC 1 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, make 3 chain, slip stitch into circle centre.

3- Make 2 chain, slip stitch into 2nd chain, DC 2 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, DC 1  and SC 1 into next chain, SC 1 into next 4 chains, DC 1 into next chain, SC 1 into next 4 chains, SC 1 and DC 1 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, DC 2 into next chain, make 2 chain, slip stitch into middle.

4-   At this point you can change wool if desired for a coloured frill. Make 2 chain, slip stitch into 2nd chain, continue to SC 1 in each chain to the point, make 2 chain, continue to SC 1 to last 2 chains, make 2 chains, slip stitch into middle, tie off and cut.



Ball Pincushion
This pattern has been adapted from a baby soft- toy, so can just as easily be constructed in washable materials for that purpose.
Any fabric scraps- either make each segment a different colour, or coordinate as you like. You will need 36 cut-outs of the pattern below.

You can scale to whatever size you like, but 2 x 1 inch template makes a good sized ball.
If the material will fray it is best to add a 1/8” seam allowance and sew inside out, then turn and stuff. If the fabric is not woven you will be able to over-sew the seams, perhaps with a pretty coordinating thread and beads...
Place 2 pieces right sides together and sew from end to end on one side. Fold one half back and lay the 3rd piece onto the sewn ones, pin and sew all round, leaving ¾” gap for stuffing. Turn through the right way, stuff and sew up the gap.



 Make up 12 segments in this way. 

Sew 4 segments together at one end, creating a star. Repeat with another 4 segments.


The remaining 4 segments form the waist of the ball, sew them end to end across the stars to create the whole round.
Where you have sewn the ends together you may want to add beads, sequins or buttons to hide the stitching.


Easy Crochet Roses

These can be made in any weight wool, but for this project I am using a double knit and a 4mm hook. A heavier wool will need a larger hook, but I find as this is not a garment you have more flexibility with hook sizes in case you don’t have the exact size for a weight. You should always experiment, try several hook sizes with a given wool, you might find you prefer a certain result.
Any double knit remnants- a couple of meters should be sufficient. 4mm hook.

1-  1- Create 41 chains. Miss 3 chains, *DC 2 into next chain, make 1 chain, DC 2 into next chain, make 1 chain, miss 2 chains*, Repeat to end, slip stitch into last chain.
2   2- Turn, make 3 chains, *DC 7 into gap made by 1 chain, slip stitch into gap made by chain* Continue to end, cast off leaving a 6” length.
3  3- Fold the first petal in half and stitch in place, work the petals round gradually widening the circle. Stitch as you go. Tie off and cut.


Crochet Lily

This is so easy to make it’s sinful! It looks great if the centre is beaded, with a smaller version or a rose added. Any weight wool can be used, but I shall use double knit and a 4mm hook.

A few meters of your chosen weight wool and appropriate sized hook. The weight will affect the end size, thinner wool-  smaller lily.
1- Make 6 chains, slip stitch into the last chain to make a circle.   
2- Make 10 chains, slip stitch into the first chain, *make 10 chains, slip stitch into next chain*. Repeat another 4 times. These are the foundation for each petal.   
3- *HDC 8 up the right side of the (first) loop, make 2 chains, HDC 8 down the other side, slip stitch into centre of circle*. Repeat for the next 5 loops. Tie off leaving a longish length.
4- It is perfectly okay to leave it as it is now and add a central flower or bead, but I like to gather it up a bit. Using a wool sewing needle bring the needle up from the back in the first HDC on the left of any loop. Bring the needle through the corresponding HDC on the right side of the petal to the left. Take the needle through to the back and work it back up through the right side of the next petal- you are basically weaving over/under so that the petals slightly overlap. When all are done you can gather up as you like.
5- Pull all the petals into shape by gently tugging at the 2 chains at the top. If your tension is right you will now have a stiff, well-held petal.

This design can be adapted for a fuller look. For each extra petal you require make an extra chain in the beginning and work an extra loop.


Butterflies in wool
This is a variation of the lily crochet pattern posted above. Instead of creating 6,8 or more petals we only create 4 as the wings. The top 2 are larger than the bottom 2, but even this can be played with by using extra stitches and chains.
The examples shown below are a natural 3ply and a mohair using a 3.5mm and 4 mm hook. The larger sample uses both wools simultaneously using a 5mm hook. The edging was completed with a 3.5mm hook.

    1- Cast on 5 stitches, slip stitch into the first chain to create a circle. Make 10 chain, slip stitch into the circle, chain 1 into circle, make 10 chain, slip stitch into centre again, chain 1 into circle again, make 5 chain, slip stitch into centre, slip stitch into centre, chain 1 into centre, make 5 chain, slip stitch into centre, chain 1 into centre.
    2- Holding the right hand large loop in your left hand; work all following stitches into the loop; DC 1, TC 6, make 2 chain, DC 7, slip stitch into centre. Left wing; DC 7, make 2 chain, TC 6, DC 1, slip stitch into centre.
     3- Bottom wings; DC 2 into loop, TC 2, make 3 chain, TC 2, DC 2, slip stitch into centre, DC 2, TC 2, make 3 chain, TC 2, DC 2, slip stitch into centre then finish off and sew end into chains.       
     4- If you wish you can edge with a complimentary colour. Start in any of the 4 slip stitches to the centre. Chain round until you come to one of the wing “corners” where you can either create the similar number of chains as in the gap; 2 or 3, or you can build it up with DC or TC to mirror the shape- I generally DC1, TC3 and DC 1, then return into the single chains around the edge... but it is very flexible if you want to create different wing shapes, just remember to mirror on the other side.


A selection of butterflies ready to sew on and embellish with beads, sequins and threads.


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